Embroidery
is worked with the help of an "AAR" holed needle, where the
thread is introduced from below. This is also known as ‘Mochi Bharat’
(Cobbler’s stitch). Now this embroidery has become extinct. It is
possible to see its samples only in the Aina Mahal, Kutch museum and the
Bharatiya Sanskruti Darshan in Bhuj.
Aari work minute chain stitch
embroidery executed with a delicate version of the cobbler's tool, was
unique to Mochis, originally cobblers, who became professional embroiderers
in Western India. In the Nineteenth century Jadeja rulers hired Mochis,
commissioning the finest embroideries stitched in silk on gaji/satin
silk imported from China through Mandvi. But this aari garments, so
closely associated with Kutch royalty, were considered "second
class art", made for little occasions or daily use. Most were worn
only a few times, then passed down to village-born servants.
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